Have you noticed the roadside gaddas in Bangalore? They compete next to the Shanti Sagars and the upscale joints. But mind you they are not empty; they are as full as the Shanti Sagars, if not more.
The other day I decided to try one of them. They gave me a plate full of veg pulao for Rs. 10/-. The same pulao or may be with some costlier rice would cost Rs. 50/- at Shanti Sagar.
But the point I found most interesting --- was that it was a husband, wife manning the shop and it was given with a smile on their faces. On top of it, the lady asked me if I wanted some sherva (I figured it is some kind of spicy gravy) with the pulao. Not knowing what sherva was, I said give me some.
Economics is not a zero sum game. I am glad to see all kinds of Bangaloreans doing well being entreprenuers.
Cheers, ,and Jai Hind!
Samir
Friday, April 18, 2008
Thursday, January 31, 2008
What *is* the other bangalore?
Most of the times, in the evening, I go for a walk to a place called Neelasandra. It is decrepit neighbourhood next to the Infant Jesus Church. A place where Muslims, Christians and Hindus live in houses which are no more than a room. Yet, in general, except for rare times, there is harmony around. Most of the folks making a hand-to-mouth living; some selling fruits, others running small shops, or eateris, or barber shops, or what not.
After a hectic day at the computers, there is no better place for a relaxation. A place where people though poor are full of kindness. Where there does not seem to be much cut throat competition inspite of poverty.
For many of these guys, the evening ends in a bar or a shack after a hard day's work. It is a hard living where a night's drink is the result of a good day. The bars or rather the shacks are ill lit. But those who server liquor are friendly blokes and would be happy if given 10 rupees for a tip.
If one wants to really experience the "other" Bangalore, these and similar places around Bangalore are the placees. Yes, the IT industry has bought better times for these people. Many people who are real estate brokers make a good living thanks to IT folks renting out places. Others like masons, carpenters are happy due to the construction boom. Not many complain.
I heard that TCS employees are complaining about their pay being reduced due to the dollar going down. One needs to spend time with folks such as the one I am talking about and one knows what a priviledged life software engineers live. Sure, intellectual work is very tough, no doubt.
What people in places such as Neelasandra lack is formal education. Many are Muslims and perhaps get brain-washed in Madrassas. Also, disciplines such as software require single-minded concentration. In the circumstances that they live, there is just no space for something like concentration. There are too many people in one square meter of space at any time.
Most dont have a concept of an intellectual life. I am a frequent visitor in those places. Some call me a scientist, others probably think I am some kind of a mad guy. How does one explain to these people the kind of live we live? Leave alone these people, the concept of a serious software is too difficult to even explain to medical doctors, or to parents or to others who are in more people oriented professions.
After a hectic day at the computers, there is no better place for a relaxation. A place where people though poor are full of kindness. Where there does not seem to be much cut throat competition inspite of poverty.
For many of these guys, the evening ends in a bar or a shack after a hard day's work. It is a hard living where a night's drink is the result of a good day. The bars or rather the shacks are ill lit. But those who server liquor are friendly blokes and would be happy if given 10 rupees for a tip.
If one wants to really experience the "other" Bangalore, these and similar places around Bangalore are the placees. Yes, the IT industry has bought better times for these people. Many people who are real estate brokers make a good living thanks to IT folks renting out places. Others like masons, carpenters are happy due to the construction boom. Not many complain.
I heard that TCS employees are complaining about their pay being reduced due to the dollar going down. One needs to spend time with folks such as the one I am talking about and one knows what a priviledged life software engineers live. Sure, intellectual work is very tough, no doubt.
What people in places such as Neelasandra lack is formal education. Many are Muslims and perhaps get brain-washed in Madrassas. Also, disciplines such as software require single-minded concentration. In the circumstances that they live, there is just no space for something like concentration. There are too many people in one square meter of space at any time.
Most dont have a concept of an intellectual life. I am a frequent visitor in those places. Some call me a scientist, others probably think I am some kind of a mad guy. How does one explain to these people the kind of live we live? Leave alone these people, the concept of a serious software is too difficult to even explain to medical doctors, or to parents or to others who are in more people oriented professions.
Monday, November 19, 2007
Walking around Bangalore
The "other" Bangalore is best seen by walking. The other day I decided to walk from M. G. Road to Majestic. I started off around 5.45 pm or so and reached Majestic around 7.15 pm.
While walking, one can get a view of Bangalore that otherwise one wouldnt get. I started off from the Museum Road and went off to Residency Road. Young students at a college on the Residency Road were having their college fest or something and a huge rock show was on. Students and young people are one of the main sections of people who walk around. Throughout my walk from M. G. Road to Majestic, I saw students with their bagpacks on their shoulders walking.
As I reached the Residency road and St. Mark's road crossing, I saw huge crowds waiting at a bus stop. Tons of Bangaloreans go around in buses. Walking further I reached the end of Residency Road and near Woodlands, I figured how difficult we have made things for pedestrians in Bangalore. It takes a long long time just to cross a road in Bangalore.
A walk from M. G. Road to Majestic is a walk from one culture to another. The more Westernised and hip M. G. Road to the very Indian Majestic. The path literally takes you from one culture to another and there is a gradual changing of cultures. Till about end of Residency Road, I would say everything is ultra westernised. The huge and tall buildings on Residency road have come up on traditional Indian places demolished by big time realtors. However, as one reaches Richmond circle (There is no circle now as all there is, is a flyover) one is sort of in an intermediate culture. The road from Richmod circle to Hudson circle? --- one on which one side is Kanteerva stadium --- is a long stretch. On the other side of the road, I noticed that there area a lot of temples. I had company throughout, which just tells me that a lot of Bangaloreans still walk. In fact, I saw a number of young women walking too, even though it was dark. One good thing about walking is that one keeps oneself fit if one walks. Most software engineers who ride in cars can't afford such a luxury.
After Hudson circle (and I dont know if I have got the name of the square right) comes the corporation. Here again, there was a huge crowd of people waiting for the bus.
The final stretch of course is a long one which is the K. G. Road.
The nice thing about the walk I found was that one can really feast on various things on the way. Darshanis abound; and hawkers sell channa, groudnuts to even boiled eggs and watermelons. It is interesting to see how different Indians make their living.
The other thing I noticed about in this walk, is how organized people walk. Especially while crossing the roads, this needs to be seen. It is important I figured to follow the crowd especially while crossing the road. The traffic too seemed much more organized and less agressive compared to say Airport Road traffic.
While walking, one can get a view of Bangalore that otherwise one wouldnt get. I started off from the Museum Road and went off to Residency Road. Young students at a college on the Residency Road were having their college fest or something and a huge rock show was on. Students and young people are one of the main sections of people who walk around. Throughout my walk from M. G. Road to Majestic, I saw students with their bagpacks on their shoulders walking.
As I reached the Residency road and St. Mark's road crossing, I saw huge crowds waiting at a bus stop. Tons of Bangaloreans go around in buses. Walking further I reached the end of Residency Road and near Woodlands, I figured how difficult we have made things for pedestrians in Bangalore. It takes a long long time just to cross a road in Bangalore.
A walk from M. G. Road to Majestic is a walk from one culture to another. The more Westernised and hip M. G. Road to the very Indian Majestic. The path literally takes you from one culture to another and there is a gradual changing of cultures. Till about end of Residency Road, I would say everything is ultra westernised. The huge and tall buildings on Residency road have come up on traditional Indian places demolished by big time realtors. However, as one reaches Richmond circle (There is no circle now as all there is, is a flyover) one is sort of in an intermediate culture. The road from Richmod circle to Hudson circle? --- one on which one side is Kanteerva stadium --- is a long stretch. On the other side of the road, I noticed that there area a lot of temples. I had company throughout, which just tells me that a lot of Bangaloreans still walk. In fact, I saw a number of young women walking too, even though it was dark. One good thing about walking is that one keeps oneself fit if one walks. Most software engineers who ride in cars can't afford such a luxury.
After Hudson circle (and I dont know if I have got the name of the square right) comes the corporation. Here again, there was a huge crowd of people waiting for the bus.
The final stretch of course is a long one which is the K. G. Road.
The nice thing about the walk I found was that one can really feast on various things on the way. Darshanis abound; and hawkers sell channa, groudnuts to even boiled eggs and watermelons. It is interesting to see how different Indians make their living.
The other thing I noticed about in this walk, is how organized people walk. Especially while crossing the roads, this needs to be seen. It is important I figured to follow the crowd especially while crossing the road. The traffic too seemed much more organized and less agressive compared to say Airport Road traffic.
Friday, November 9, 2007
Majestic Bangalore
If there is one place in Bangalore, everyone will be familiar with -- it is Majestic.
My first memories of Bangalore are that of getting off a bus in Majestic Bus Stand. The huge crowds at Majestic give you ample evidence of India's population. But the thing I like the most about Majestic is the hustle and bustle, the whole atmosphere. It is like a big fair out there at any time of the year, any time of the day.
Majestic is full of lodges, and restaurants. But it is also full of hawkers, and vendors vending their stuff. Right from clothes, to eatables, to gadgets (the famous Burma Bazaar has all kinds of imported electronic
gadgest --- available without any receipts) Majestic is a traditional Indian market place.
When I get stressed out working too much on my computer, or dealing with the stress of the IT world, I head towards Majestic. I spend hours just watching the crowds, and in a few hours, all my stress disappears.
Among the eating places at Majestic, FishLand which servers Karwari food is my favourite. It makes me feel like home. Narthaki the Andhra-style food joint is also not bad. And all kinds of eatables hawked by the street vendors --- right from chana to ground-nuts complement one's menu.
The best way to visit Majestic is by a BMTC bus. It is one of the three main terminals of Bangalore. The other two are city market and Shivajinagar. Take a window seat on a BMTC bus, and have a vantage view of the city. The bus stand is usually teeming with people. I have sometimes wondered why terrorists have not targeted the place. The place hardly has any security and in every single square meter of place, chances are you would find at least one person.
Today, Bangalore has changed from what it was ten or twenty years back. Areas such as Indiranagar, Airport Road etc have become hubs of IT industry and upscale buildings. Majestic however hasnt changed that much. Many shops remain the same. In 1995 / 96 when I had just come to India from US, I had visited a place which had an Internet there. The place still exists now, just that it has become a cybercafe.
There is a timeless character about Majestic just like there is a timeless character about India. The place literally is a mini-India. The railway, an essential element of every Indian's life is also there at Majestic. So is the bus. And when an average Indian visits Bangalore, he would ususally visit by bus or train, and Majestic would be the first place he would see. As a result, Majestic is teeming with tourists.
Quacks, and thiefs abound at Majestic. Once I was conned by a well-dressed man at Majestic. Having just moved from the US, I was naive. One evening, he gave me a sad story about how he had come down from Delhi for admitting his son to a medical college in Manipal, and on the bus from Manipal to Bangalore, all his money and his bag was stolen from the bus. I gave him money to make a call to his wife in Delhi. Those were the days of STD booths, and mobiles hadnt come to India then. Then, I also treated him to a dinner. The interesting part is that as we went to a restaurant, he convinced me not to go that restaurant and instead go to a more upscale restaurant. Finally, I gave him 100 more rupees and he gave me some Delhi address, and promised to send me the money soon. I never heard from him again.
Even with all this, I love Majestic. Pehaps, deep somewhere, I feel one with the crowd when I am out there, and really feel like a desi.
My first memories of Bangalore are that of getting off a bus in Majestic Bus Stand. The huge crowds at Majestic give you ample evidence of India's population. But the thing I like the most about Majestic is the hustle and bustle, the whole atmosphere. It is like a big fair out there at any time of the year, any time of the day.
Majestic is full of lodges, and restaurants. But it is also full of hawkers, and vendors vending their stuff. Right from clothes, to eatables, to gadgets (the famous Burma Bazaar has all kinds of imported electronic
gadgest --- available without any receipts) Majestic is a traditional Indian market place.
When I get stressed out working too much on my computer, or dealing with the stress of the IT world, I head towards Majestic. I spend hours just watching the crowds, and in a few hours, all my stress disappears.
Among the eating places at Majestic, FishLand which servers Karwari food is my favourite. It makes me feel like home. Narthaki the Andhra-style food joint is also not bad. And all kinds of eatables hawked by the street vendors --- right from chana to ground-nuts complement one's menu.
The best way to visit Majestic is by a BMTC bus. It is one of the three main terminals of Bangalore. The other two are city market and Shivajinagar. Take a window seat on a BMTC bus, and have a vantage view of the city. The bus stand is usually teeming with people. I have sometimes wondered why terrorists have not targeted the place. The place hardly has any security and in every single square meter of place, chances are you would find at least one person.
Today, Bangalore has changed from what it was ten or twenty years back. Areas such as Indiranagar, Airport Road etc have become hubs of IT industry and upscale buildings. Majestic however hasnt changed that much. Many shops remain the same. In 1995 / 96 when I had just come to India from US, I had visited a place which had an Internet there. The place still exists now, just that it has become a cybercafe.
There is a timeless character about Majestic just like there is a timeless character about India. The place literally is a mini-India. The railway, an essential element of every Indian's life is also there at Majestic. So is the bus. And when an average Indian visits Bangalore, he would ususally visit by bus or train, and Majestic would be the first place he would see. As a result, Majestic is teeming with tourists.
Quacks, and thiefs abound at Majestic. Once I was conned by a well-dressed man at Majestic. Having just moved from the US, I was naive. One evening, he gave me a sad story about how he had come down from Delhi for admitting his son to a medical college in Manipal, and on the bus from Manipal to Bangalore, all his money and his bag was stolen from the bus. I gave him money to make a call to his wife in Delhi. Those were the days of STD booths, and mobiles hadnt come to India then. Then, I also treated him to a dinner. The interesting part is that as we went to a restaurant, he convinced me not to go that restaurant and instead go to a more upscale restaurant. Finally, I gave him 100 more rupees and he gave me some Delhi address, and promised to send me the money soon. I never heard from him again.
Even with all this, I love Majestic. Pehaps, deep somewhere, I feel one with the crowd when I am out there, and really feel like a desi.
Tuesday, October 30, 2007
Dawangere Idly Dosa Point
There is nothing as quintessentially Indian as eating out on the road-side. It may be not very hygeinic at times, but for the mind certainly it is a great and relaxing experience. Nothing beats going with friends to an Idly
Dosa Joint and having a sumptous meal. Today, a couple of us friends went to a place in Wilson Garden called the Dawangere Idly Dosa Point. It was just super. Even the darshini idlys dont compare to the Idlys
of this place.
But the most important part of this place is the atmosphere you get, and the general warmth of people all around. One cant that in a sterile atmosphere in an upscale joint.
You come back feeling completely rejunevated and even emotionally charged.
This is India that one misses when one goes abroad, and no amount of Pizza Huts, and McDonalds can replicate such an atmosphere.
We are a culture which likes to celebrate. We like to eat well (although the poor cant do it), and we take
great pride in socializing and being generally social beings. There is nothing more Indian than a social
gathering.
Dosa Joint and having a sumptous meal. Today, a couple of us friends went to a place in Wilson Garden called the Dawangere Idly Dosa Point. It was just super. Even the darshini idlys dont compare to the Idlys
of this place.
But the most important part of this place is the atmosphere you get, and the general warmth of people all around. One cant that in a sterile atmosphere in an upscale joint.
You come back feeling completely rejunevated and even emotionally charged.
This is India that one misses when one goes abroad, and no amount of Pizza Huts, and McDonalds can replicate such an atmosphere.
We are a culture which likes to celebrate. We like to eat well (although the poor cant do it), and we take
great pride in socializing and being generally social beings. There is nothing more Indian than a social
gathering.
Sunday, October 28, 2007
20,000 march to demand land rights
"NEW DELHI: A massive rally of over 20,000 people from 15 states on Sunday reached the national Capital after marching 340 kms from Gwalior, demanding their rights to land and livelihood.
The "Janadesh March", organised by Ekta Parishad, was flagged off at Guwalior on October 2 and have already marched for 24 days."
I read this news in Times of India web edition today.
The government of India is busy doling out land in the name of SEZs who already have big money. While tribals
are --- at the cost of their lives (6 out of the 20,000 died on the way to Delhi) --- protesting to get their livelihoods.
What kind of an India are we living in?
We dont need a single SEZ at this time. No biggies need to be given any tax sop. In fact, they have to be penalized as per the law of the land for any illegalities done.
Let us support these tribals in any and all we can .
Jai Hind,
Samir
The "Janadesh March", organised by Ekta Parishad, was flagged off at Guwalior on October 2 and have already marched for 24 days."
I read this news in Times of India web edition today.
The government of India is busy doling out land in the name of SEZs who already have big money. While tribals
are --- at the cost of their lives (6 out of the 20,000 died on the way to Delhi) --- protesting to get their livelihoods.
What kind of an India are we living in?
We dont need a single SEZ at this time. No biggies need to be given any tax sop. In fact, they have to be penalized as per the law of the land for any illegalities done.
Let us support these tribals in any and all we can .
Jai Hind,
Samir
Saturday, October 27, 2007
The other Bangalore
Today as I was walking towards Cafe Coffee Day on100 ft road in Indiranagar, I saw a huge crowd gathered there by the roadside. When I inquired, I was told that a 13 year kid was knocked spot-dead by a BMTC (Bangalore Municipal Transport Corporation) bus. The kid was apparently riding on a bicycle.
Over the period of my stay in Bangalore, I havent stopped noticing the umpteen number of people who ride bicycles in Bangalore. When I first moved to Bangalore from the US, I too bought a bicycle. But the carbon dioxide/monoxide that I had to inhale on the signals along with the dangers of riding (a bicycle rider is not even considered as important as a mosquito by bike-riders and motorists) made me give it up soon.But there are a huge number of Bangaloreans who need a bicycle to make their living. It is as dangerous a living as fighting on the LoC, I think.
Huge number of Bangaloreans also travel by buses everday. One needs to watch the crowds on various bus stands. Who cares for their comfort? The Kumarswamis of this world (and thanks heavens he is not a CM now) buy huge buildings which they rent out to IT companies, once they become CMs. Can they be even remotely called representatives of the people ?
And now there is this so called Lead India initiative. What percentage of Indians can read English in thefirst place? How dare an English paper even claim to represent India , let alone lead it? No wonder, Mayawati has been hailed as an upcoming world leader. Her corruption apart, certainly, she can at least probably claim to speak the language of the people, unlike the likes of Times of India.
regards,
Samir
Over the period of my stay in Bangalore, I havent stopped noticing the umpteen number of people who ride bicycles in Bangalore. When I first moved to Bangalore from the US, I too bought a bicycle. But the carbon dioxide/monoxide that I had to inhale on the signals along with the dangers of riding (a bicycle rider is not even considered as important as a mosquito by bike-riders and motorists) made me give it up soon.But there are a huge number of Bangaloreans who need a bicycle to make their living. It is as dangerous a living as fighting on the LoC, I think.
Huge number of Bangaloreans also travel by buses everday. One needs to watch the crowds on various bus stands. Who cares for their comfort? The Kumarswamis of this world (and thanks heavens he is not a CM now) buy huge buildings which they rent out to IT companies, once they become CMs. Can they be even remotely called representatives of the people ?
And now there is this so called Lead India initiative. What percentage of Indians can read English in thefirst place? How dare an English paper even claim to represent India , let alone lead it? No wonder, Mayawati has been hailed as an upcoming world leader. Her corruption apart, certainly, she can at least probably claim to speak the language of the people, unlike the likes of Times of India.
regards,
Samir
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